The Cartier Santos Dumont is an important watch, not just for Cartier but for horology. You see the Santos Dumont wasn't just Cartier's first ever men's wrist watch, it was THE world's first ever men's wrist watch - arguably. It's kind of up for debate. What's not up for debate is the Santos Dumont's origin story.
As with most things horologically concerned in the early 20th century, the Santos was born out of necessity. The Dumont is a pilots watch - technically, and in the early 1900's form followed function. In 1904 men hadn't quite caught onto the idea of a wrist watch yet. That was about to change. As the world was about to enter its first major global war the practicality of the wrist watch was going to become abundantly evident.
In 1973 the Santos Dumont was relaunched as part of the Louis Cartier Collection beginning with the references 78097 and 78098. The 96054 came later and received a number of upgrades. To start, the ETA based Cartier 78 was swapped out for a Frederick Piguet 21. The movement is an improvement on a number of fronts and boasts a higher standard of finishing. Its a very thin movement leading to Cartier watches equipped with them to be referred to as "Extra Plate" or "Extra Flat."
The 96054 was limited to approximately 1600 pieces. It is lovely watch and this particular 96054 is a fantastic example. It is has an extremely sharp case and is a very early example almost cracking the first 100 ever made. We are pleased to be offering it in our vintage watch shop and are hopeful it will be going to a good home.
ABOUT THIS WATCH:
MANUFACTURER: Cartier
MODEL: Santos Dumont
REFERENCE: 96054
SERIAL: 960540111
YEAR: 1980's
DIAL: The original, lacquered, white dial is in good shape. The lacquer appears to have faint cracking or "spidering". This faint cracking in the dial is not observable at normal viewing distances. It only becomes apparent under a loupe or under close inspection utilizing light to reflect of its surface. It is a swiss dial.
CASE: A solid 18 karat yellow gold case. The case measures 27mm by 27mm. The case has received the lightest of polishes in the past. The original brushed finish can be appreciated on the cases anterior and posterior surfaces. It is contrasted by a mirror polished bevel whos lines remain very distinct. The hallmarks on the watches case back are deep and extremely crisp.
MOVEMENT: Frederick Piguet caliber 21. This is an ultra thin manually wound caliber that Cartier began placing in its extra plate models in the early 1970's. The service history is unknown. The movement can be serviced for approximately $325 plus parts. If serviced the watch will come with a one year mechanical warranty.
BRACELET/STRAP: The watch is paired on a espresso brown, swiss made Cartier strap.
ACCESSORIES: None.
BOX/PAPERS: No.
WARRANTY: None unless the watch is serviced first. If serviced the watch will come with a one year warranty.
BANK WIRE/ZELLE PRICE: $8,750 shipped.
